All the Winners at the Oscars, Paul Andrew Mines the Archives at Ferragamo

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All the Winners From Last Night’s Academy Awards
There were a few surprises last night at the Academy Awards – the biggest upset of the night probably being in the Best Actress category, where Olivia Colman triumphed over Glenn Close for her role in “The Favourite.” Green Book was a surprise win for Best Picture, beating Roma, which took home the award for Best Foreign-Language Film. Here are all the winners from the ceremony:

Salvatore Ferragamo Keeps It Close to Home
Paul Andrew started working on Fall 2019 by looking at a shoe from Ferragamo’s archives. According to Vogue Runway it was a colorful wedge from 1942 that inspired this season’s palate and textures — leather, suede, and heavier satins in warm colors like ocher and teal certainly had a fall feel. Function seemed to be at the heart of each look, with thoughtful utilitarian details like large pockets and ties.

LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers Receives Record Number of Applications
This year, over 1,700 designer applied to the LVMH Prize, a record in the competition’s six-year history. This morning, the prize committee released the shortlist of 20 designers moving on to the semi-final stage. They will present their collections to the panel of international fashion experts on March 1st and 2nd in Paris. From there, eight finalists will be selected. The winner will be announced in June. Below are the 20 shortlisted designers:

3.Paradis by Emeric Tchatchoua, menswear
Anrealage by Kunihiko Morinaga, womenswear
Bethany Williams, gender-neutral fashion
Bode by Emily Adams Bode, menswear
Boramy Viguier, menswear
Duran Lantink, gender-neutral fashion
Eftychia by Eftychia Karamolegkou, womenswear
Germanier by Kévin Germanier, womenswear
Hed Mayner, gender-neutral fashion
Hu by Caroline Hu, womenswear
Kanghyuk by Kanghyuk Choi and Sanglak Shon, menswear
Kiko Kostadinov, menswear
Kenneth Ize by Kenneth Izedonmwen, gender-neutral fashion
Lecavalier by Marie-Eve Lecavalier, womenswear
Paria/Farzaneh by Paria Farzaneh, menswear
Phipps by Spencer Phipps, gender-neutral fashion
Richard Malone, womenswear
Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt, menswear
Susan Fang, womenswear
Thebe Magugu, womenswear

(LVMH)

Marni Goes Hard Core
Punk isn’t dead at Marni, but it is luxe! Creative director Francesco Risso elevated the subculture’s DIY aesthetic to something a little more high-fashion this season. Instead of slashed fabric and ripped hems held together with safety pins, Marni had expert — if off-kilter — tailoring with intricate chain accents. Despite being styled with bold lips and blunt haircuts, many of the individual pieces were actually quite tame. It turns out you can make anything edgy with the right attitude.

Carine Roitfeld Launches Perfume Collection (New York Times)
Carine Roitfeld is launching not one but seven new gender-neutral perfumes. “I’ve always been very sensitive to smell,” she told the New York Times. “I entered a competition one time to test hundreds of vodkas blindly. I knew which one was which based on the smell.” Each fragrance is based on a fictional lover from around the world. The scents will be available at Net-a-Porter May 6, but posters promoting the collection will be unveiled tomorrow in Paris.

Carine Roitfeld (Patrick McMullan/PMC)

Darkness Reigns at Armani
Giorgio Armani kept things somber this season. Limiting his colors to blue, black, and gray allowed the textures of his luxurious fabrics to take center stage. Velvet and silk taffeta helped accentuate his structured silhouettes and added a bit of intrigue. Overall, the collection was quite similar to what Armani has been producing for years. There were some solid pieces, but it would be nice to see him update more that just his fabrics.

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