Raf Simons finally made his debut in New York last night with his Fall/Winter 2016 menswear collection for his eponymous label. And to show his appreciation for his new home, the collection paid tribute to all things New York. To wit: Slouchy knit sweaters emblazoned with “NY” and “I love you,” overcoats galore, crime scene-style tape worn as belts (a crowd favorite), and plenty of black. Boxy tuxedo coats and vests were worn over t-shirts and workman style shirts, and pants were topped off with blazers in a nod to the city’s high-low aesthetic. Pants were worn long and gathered at the ankles and khaki-colored pants were worn oversize (all were paired with a clunky black dress shoe), which felt like a cheeky nod to the average American male’s sartorial style…especially when you consider this master tailor just decamped from Europe. Of course, it felt fresh when Simons put his spin on it.
“It only shows you what a master tailor he is and that he can play with proportions,” said GQ‘s fashion director Madeline Weeks post-show. “We’re so lucky to have him in New York.” Perched front row was a welcoming committee that included everyone from Luka Sabbat, A$AP Rocky, and Playboi Carti to female models like Hanne Gaby Odiele and Julia Nobis. The cool kids, so to speak. Welcome home Raf.