NYFW Spring 2014: BCBG, Honor, Marissa Webb, Costello Tagliapietra
(NEW YORK) BCBG
Always the first major player to kick off NYFW, BCBG took a look back to make a leap forward. “Next year it’s going to be 25 years of BCBG, so we went back to our archives and pulled out the pieces that really made a statement,” Lubov Azria told us backstage before the show. “When we looked at the pieces, we realized it’s about the process of deconstructing. We played with the idea of taking something and making it into something else.” Look for a collection of a mostly neutral palette of chambrays, blushes, whites, and black. Sometimes a little reconstruction is a very good thing.
Giovanna Randall‘s Spring collection was a dreamily romantic mix of ultra-feminine looks that emerged via a backdrop reminiscent of a midnight forest to a serious soundtrack that set the tone for a somber mood. But the clothing was anything but dark, with pieces like a rose organza tiered gown or a birch white paper nylon gown with fleurette sequins that fluttered down one shoulder. The scattered fleurettes were a theme that ran throughout the collection—and were even scattered through the models’ hair. Randall told The Daily she’d had fireflies on the mind while designing. Even the darker pieces, like a long-sleeved black mini dress with a pointed white collar, rang more sweet than morose. “I was thinking of a Midsummer Night’s Dream sort of thing, but dark, but also light. I couldn’t decide if it was a wedding or a funeral.” Dreamy would be the word. Despite Randall’s attempts at offsetting the romance of it all with hints of darkness, the overall message became clear when she sent the mods girlishly skipping hand-in-hand down the runway.
In her third season under her own label, we’re sure Marissa Webb is sick of all of the J.Crew references lodged at the former head womenswear designer for the brand. But the influence is still evident in pieces like a blush V-neck dress with a short two tiered bell skirt tied with a bow to rolled up military green pants worn with a simple white tee, but Webb said the collection was based off her own personal style. Makes sense. Webb is a fan of slouchy oversize silk shirts worn with easy pants with a leather jacket thrown over or an olive strapless tutu-skirted dress worn over a black button down with a tie. The look? A schoolgirlish tomboy that’s not averse to occasionally breaking out her femininity.
Signature looks don’t come much stronger than the getups worn by fashion’s favorite burly men, Robert Tagliapietra and Jeffrey Costello. The duo’s own ensembles of plaid shirts, suspenders, and overall lumberjack look served as inspiration for their Spring collection, believe it or not. Luckily, the models didn’t come marching down the runway looking like versions of the Brawny man: The idea translated into pieces like a plaid printed orange and teal silk top worn with a deep green box print skirt, and a faded plaid blazer with camel and orange reverse-tuxedo pants that mimicked the ones the designers wore to take a finale bow. Otherwise, there was none of their signature draping in this collection. Looks were clean and simple like monochrome pencil and shift dresses as well as pant suits. The focus here was color in bursts of bright mandarin, sky blues, and deep minty greens.