NYFW Fall 2014: Delpozo, Yigal AzrouÃ«l, Hood By Air, Tim Coppens
(NEW YORK) Delpozo
It’s official: Sunday morning, pre-brunch showings are hands down the best events during fash week. If all of the necessary factors align, a designer can achieve something so close to perfection that it probably doesn’t even matter what the clothes look like. (Although if they are amazing works of art, consider your mind blown.) Take Delpozo, for example. The venue: Skylight Limited on the 37th floor of a midtown highrise. Views of the city’s snow-covered rooftops and the Hudson River were only enhanced by the morning’s crisp sunlight. The front row: Miroslava Duma, Lauren Santo Domingo, Taylor Tomasi Hill, Giovanna Bataglia, Indre Rockefeller—the globe’s chicest jet set were probably dressing up for brunch anyway, why not have them swing by a showing of your Fall collection first? And most importantly, the look: creative director Josep Font cites the Purist work of Italian artist Duilio Barnabe and the retro-futurism aesthetic of novel Logan’s Run. Using very geometrical shapes and structured fibers (like mohair, alpaca and angora) Font offered voluminous A-line silhouettes for day and outerwear. He matched them with ethereal evening looks of gauze, organza, cadi crepe and jacquard that shared shape without adding weight. Font also introduced expertly constructed and intricate embellishments of crystals, sequins, and tassels so flawless they could have been printed. To recap: Scene, check. It-girls, check. Critically acclaimed collection, check, check, and check. Amid all the excitement backstage after the show, Font (a Spanish native) spoke with The Daily about style; or, more precisely, that he doesn’t believe style is bound to frontiers. We think his front row would agree with agree with that.
In an array of comfortable knits, sexy leather pieces, and everything in between, Yigal Azrouël offered up a good mix for Fall. And what exactly would that mix include? Leather culottes? Absolutely. Taffeta baseball jackets? Check! Prim pleats? Those, too! Once the wide variety of pieces was digested, the construction of each could be assessed. Azrouël’s take on cut outs was quite refreshing, offering a peek of upper arms out of a sleek black gown, finally giving perfectly toned abs a rest. (One might want to start getting familiar with a set of weights to perk up those biceps.) A plaid Crombie was right on trend, but was put in a category of its own with zip-off sleeves in a cozy knit fabric.
Hood By Air
Some designers solely send beautiful looks down the runway on slender models with an edgy face of makeup. Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver does not have that agenda. His Fall showing was less about the clothes and more about the statement (certainly bringing to mind Rick Owens’ Spring showing). The audience perched on metal bleachers to watch models in all shapes and sizes shuffled down the runway with a circle of mix and match extensions in place of a hairdo. So, should we discuss the clothes? Right. There were multitudes of zippers, plenty of denim, and all of the sportswear that Hood by Air has become synonymous with. Oversized white long sleeve tees got a graphic redux, jackets were dramatic, and the acronym HBA was just about everywhere. Golden sneakers or thick soled shoes completed the look, as did accessories, like an actual chain held together with a functioning lock or a massive backpack. To finish, five topless dancers whipped their wigs in a modern day vogue-ing moment. As they shook, spun, and did their thing, the crowd cheered. A raucous spectacle, non?
Attention to detail is certainly something to take into consideration, but few designers make that their main statement. Tim Coppens decided to do just that, all while taking a trek to the mountains. This mountaineering couple were well-dressed in their endeavors, primped in proper suiting and strong trousers. The textures were notable: One jacket contained a swash of mixed media, while a green silk bomber was spruced up with a few panels of fur, and a wool bomber decorated with zippers, leather, and quilted panels. The accessories were great, too, from goggle-like sunglasses that were made in collaboration with Linda Farrow, plus shoes created in tandem with Common Projects, as well as knapsacks, which were done in collab with Masterpiece Japan. As for the one accessory to covet? A huge ribbed scarf with a built-in cowl neck. Très warm and très chic.