Milan Spring 2014: Gucci, DSquared2

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(MILAN) Gucci 
Guests at Gucci’s staple Milanese show location at the Piazza Oberdan mingled with flutes of prosecco in hand before entering the sleek venue. Nothing like a sip of bubbly to prepare oneself for the brand’s blend of moody sex appeal and flash! But this season, Frida Giannini added a decidedly sportif dose to the mix. Glittery purple and magenta patterned caftans and kimono-like tops flowed down the runway. Black mesh details got revealed throughout the collection, in the form of racer back tops, sleeves, teeny tiny triangle bikini tops, and baggy drawstring pants. Models with that “wet hair” look that’s having such a moment (still!) strode down the runway looking as if they had just stepped out of the pool and thrown on their flashiest cover-up to head straight to the disco. Plus, casual slouchy looks like a sea green pajama-esque matching top and pant, or a black drawstring jumpsuit came in shiny lames. Therefore, it’s likely they weren’t meant for laidback daytime affairs…or slumbering in. Bikini tops that crisscrossed down the models’ midriffs peeped out beneath slinky deep-v dresses that hung loosely and suggestively at the hips. A floor-length black caftan robe that billowed freely down the runway revealed a pale pink and coral floral pattern in the back for a touch of drame. It’s a collection best seen in person to appreciate the full extent of Frida’s extravagances. Languid and seductive: in other words, irrepressibly Italian.

Leave it to Dean and Dan Caten to kick off Milan Fashion Week with glam and glitz to spare. Blue Hawaii, anyone? As an Elvis track blasted over the load speakers, a full Tiki Bar complete with torches, palm trees, and all sorts of tropical flora was revealed to a very enthused crowd. So who was tending to the bar? None other than the Caten brothers themselves, who were mixing what appeared to be martinis as models marched down a sandy runway in tight mini corset dresses, high-waisted micro shorts with bikini tops, and a few swing coats. There was plenty of cleavage, big Sixties style blowouts, and cateye glasses. Did we mention cleavage? Cleavage is back, at least on this runway. Seems like fashion is getting its flashy groove back! In short, it was about full-on sex appeal, but certainly a toned-down take on sexy compared to last Spring’s scintillating biker babes in chains and leather. As some models exited the runway they perched barside—like one duo of mods donning leopard high waisted bikini bottoms and matching bikini tops. Another model in coral cropped pants and a tall straw beach hat sat down at the bar for a smoke. The models seemed to enjoy themselves just as much as the cocktail-serving designers Perhaps it’s just a sign of what’s to come later at the twin duo’s big bash at their headquarters in Milan. Salute!

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