(NEW YORK) While it might not be the fashion capital of the world, Raleigh, North Carolina is home to a duo of cutting edge denim designers. Victor and Sarah Lytvinenko co-founded Raleigh, a store and workshop where craft denim is made and sold, along with an expansive RTW collection. However, the denim die-hards (and married couple) are no strangers to New York. They presented their first runway show in February 2012, opened up shop in NoLita last fall, and are among the new members of the CFDA. Expect to see even more of these jeans purveyors in the future…
BY DENA SILVER
Why did you get into the denim business?
Victor Lytvinenko: I had a few pairs of jeans that I got while traveling in Europe that had finally worn out, so we got a sewing machine off of Craigslist and started making jeans in our apartment.
Tell us more about those European jeans!
VL: They had really smart little sewing details.
Sarah Lytvinenko: Actually, they were hideous! They were some sort of washed-out color, with these weird little pockets everywhere. But the fit was really nice, and that’s where the inspiration came from.
Where did you learn the necessary jeans-crafting techniques?
VL: I realized that there’s so much history in making jeans in North Carolina that we could tap into, so we started to travel through some of the smaller towns that had factories. We met with the mechanics at one of the oldest jean factories in the country, and with the woman who worked as a pattern maker for Levi’s since 1960. I just wanted to kind of learn through all of these people about the history, the construction, and the details.
What was your first collection like?
SL: We started out making everything by hand. We sewed our first order entirely ourselves, and my dad actually helped out, so it was a very local operation.
When did you find out that you were accepted into the CFDA?
SL: I think they may have called us separately, because we were at the warehouse and we were screaming to each other because it was so exciting, I couldn’t believe it!
Are people in North Carolina familiar with the CFDA?
SL: When we told our workshop that we got accepted to the CFDA, they just sort of stared at us blankly, so we had to explain what that was. Then we had to explain it again to our parents…and then again to some other people. We basically had to be like, you should be really excited for us and here’s why.
What’s your fave part about being a member?
SL: During the application process, you get recommendations from your peers, which I think was one of the most special parts. That really validates your work. Plus, now when we see fellow CFDA members on the street, we can exchange stories with them!
Back to the jeans! What makes Raleigh Workshop so special?
VL: We’ve taken what we learned about jeans and made it new by focusing on the details, tones, and cuffs. We use a lot of Cone Mills denim, which is the oldest denim mill in America that has the last remaining shuttle loom to make selvedge denim. We also like for the fit to be flattering, streamlined, and tailored, in terms of styling
What are the rules on wearing and breaking in selvedge jeans? It seems every designer has their own tricks…
VL: Just wear them!
SL: Also, when you’re purchasing a pair, you should size down because they stretch out as they break in. Some people get really into the kind of grit you should introduce to your denim. We’ve had customers wear theirs while building their kitchen cabinets, so their jeans have sawdust all over them.
Interesting! Is your entire collection made in your workshop?
SL: We create all of our denims here. While we realized that we’re really good at making jeans, we might not be the best at making sweatshirts right now. So we work with a couple other companies in North Carolina and New York on the other pieces in our collection.
