A year into his role as creative director of Maiyet, Declan Kearney is already feeling at home. To celebrate the sentiment, he took inspiration for his fall collection from the photography of Carlo Mollino (partially nude women lounging mostly in their abodes). “This season I feel like it’s a personal thing and it feels like home,” said Kearney. “It doesn’t feel like a fashion house. It’s very much a family kind of feeling, and I wanted to bring a little bit of that into the collection—the intimacy you feel when you are home and feeling comfortable in your surroundings.” Kearney explored different fabrics that created a sense of comfort, like the material that resembles a shag carpet seen on the coat that opened the show or in intimate slip dresses and pieces that resembled negligees. The latter, which were heavily inspired by Mollino, were some of the best pieces in the collection. Kearney first encountered Mollino’s work when working at Phi, where he stumbled across a book of the photographer’s famously intimate polaroids.
Also on the inspiration board was Jackie O. The ladylike coats and ’60s hairdos stand in stark contrast to the former idea of Mollino’s boudoir shots. But what could be sexier than imagining a prim Jackie O-type sporting a sexy little slip dress underneath a coat with, as Kearney put, a “neat shoulder and polite little shape?”