Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, And A Moving Tribute To Alber Elbaz Close Out PFW For The Season

by Freya Drohan

Your chic intel from the final day of Paris Fashion Week…. à tout à l’heure!

Miu Miu heralds the return of the ultra-low rise 

Those who spent lockdown perfecting their at-home Pilates routine are probably rejoicing right now, as Miu Miu has put low-low-looooow rise waistbands back on the map for Spring Summer ’22. The reliably youthful label put forward slashed skirts with the type of femur-grazing hemlines that would send onetime Catholic school girls into a tizzy of nostalgia. Alas, the brand always toes a neat line between edgy cool and traditionally hot, and thanks to cropped sweaters, minuscule blazers, Miu Miu branded half-zips, and boyish outerwear, those low-slung and belted bottom halves seemed more tempting in reality than they sound on paper. Today’s collection also revealed a collaboration with New Balance, with the 574 sneaker reimagined in white, khaki, or blue denim with raw-cut edges. Ensuring there was the pretty moment that we’re all used to, Mrs. Prada didn’t skimp on the embellished and embroidered dresses either. When paired with matronly grey socks, it might have brought up those aforementioned school day memories…but these outfits are good enough to do time in detention for.

Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière makes his own rules—and now he makes his own time too 

As models stomped down the runway underneath the chandelier-lined ceiling at the Louvre, it wasn’t quite clear where they were going or where they were coming from. These punky party girls transcended time, as their outfits and accessories seemed to fuse elements of futurism with the present day and references from a bygone era. Think: sharply cut blazers teamed with padded-hip hoop skirts and space hunter eyewear, or pierrot collars paired with puffer jackets. Confirming that, the sparse show notes from Ghesquière said that he was inviting the audience to ‘the grand ball of time’ where functions and codes are dissolved and where generations meet in the middle. In fact, the closer you looked at everything, the more unexpected the execution seemed and the more the lines blurred from one century to the next. In the process, the artistic director confirmed why he’s one of the most interesting designers working today: because he simply cannot be categorized and nor can his pieces.

Amber Valletta closes AZ Factory’s emotive tribute by mimicking Alber’s bow 

All things considered, there was barely a dry eye in the house as the fashion industry gathered for AZ Factory’s Love Brings Love show. From jewel-toned satin cocktail frocks, vivid ruffles, capes, and peplums—which he was enamored with during his legendary tenure at Lanvin—to looks that took their inspiration from his own uniform of oversized suit, bow tie, and thick-rimmed glasses, it was a moving love letter to the legacy of the late designer, who passed away due to COVID complications earlier this year. The Morocco-born industry icon was known for his steadfast love of women, and many of the modeling world’s stars returned the favor today. Not least Amber Valletta, who closed out the event in an ensemble that was undeniably Alber. Tipping slightly to the side as a bow, just like the designer used to do, the venue was then filled with a confetti drop of red hearts to signal that the week had come to an end.

Among the 44 designers who took part were Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia, Giorgio Armani, Fendi’s Kim Jones, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton, Burberry’s Riccardo Tisci, Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee, Raf Simons, Virgil Abloh, Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière, JW Anderson, Giambattista Valli, Ralph Lauren, Rick Owens, Thom Browne, Simone Rocha, Stella McCartney, and many more. Watch the show, below:

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