JW Anderson Improvises, Christopher Kane Shows the Softer Side of Fetish

by Aria Darcella
London Fashion Week

Read today’s dose of chic intel right here…

JW Anderson Plays With Draping and Volume for Fall 2019
Jonathan Anderson went big this season — big silhouettes, heavy fabrics, and enormous belts to hold them all together. Luckily it all works. Anderson managed to balance and hold everything together through clever tailoring. “No matter what I seem to do, I love things that are just ‘made,'” he said backstage after his show. “The dresses with the thread going through, they just happened. We were improvising colors, it’s kind of like we were taking a huge needle through the fabric. And it just stuck.”

Christopher Kane Is Here to Make London Fashion Week Sexy
Christopher Kane and his sister Tammy looked to fetish groups this season, which meant that their Fall 2019 collection was filled with a lot of unusual textiles: plastic, balloons, and rubber were the basis for garments that had a vaguely ’80s vibe. Despite the themes — including direct references to groups like “rubberists” — the collection was pretty tame by Kane standards, but full of lovely moments nonetheless.

Emilia Wickstead’s Elegant Take on The Godfather
“Family love, honor, and revenge,” is how Emilia Wickstead started her collection notes this season. Fitting, as for Fall 2019 she was inspired by The Godfather — specifically Sofia Coppola’s character Mary Corleone. Was that immediately visible in the clothes? Not really. But the collection, with its rich colors and voluminous silhouettes offset by skin-barring deep V’s, was absolutely gorgeous nonetheless.

LVMH Sets Standards for Crocodile Farming (WWD)
“LVMH has decided to set a new frame of reference by launching a new standard for the industry, whose regulations seemed insufficient to us,” LVMH strategy director Jean Baptiste Voisin said of crocodile farming. The conglomerate is setting new standards for itself with the goals of improving animal welfare and the working environment for laborers working in the industry. LVMH worked with the US-based product certification company NSF International to create the standards, which have been applied to three farms supplying its Singapore-based tannery.

 

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The British Government Proposes a Fashion Tax (Harper’s Bazaar UK)
The UK’s Environmental Audit Committee is hoping to fight fashion waste by implementing a penny tax on clothing. The plan would force retailers to “take responsibility for sustainability.” The tax would only be one penny per garment, but because of the high rates of consumption in the UK revenues could be up to £35 million ($45.4 million) a year. The agency proposes that funds could go towards recycling programs. The EAC, which released a survey ranking 16 UK brands on their sustainability efforts three weeks ago, believes that brands already committed to sustainable practices won’t be penalized as harshly as those that aren’t.

Climate Change Protests Erupt at London Fashion Week (Vogue Runway)
The environmental group Extinction Rebellion protested fashion’s effect on climate change during Victoria Beckham’s show on Sunday. “Everybody needs clothes, but we don’t need as many clothes as we make today,” Clare Farrell, an Extinction Rebellion founding member, told Vogue. “The reason why we’re going to the fashion industry is because it is one of the most polluting on earth. It is using a vast quantity of the carbon budget that we have left to produce products that we don’t need.”

 

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