Jacquemus Fall/Winter 2016

Jacquemus’ collections always seem like a surreal fashion dream come to life. There were oversized suit jackets with enormous shoulders and no armholes, tops and tunics with elevated shoulder ties that seemed to suspend from the air, a dress attached to a shirt worn sideways like a sash, and so on. He even one-upped Versace’s now famous Gigi nip slip with an intentional display of a full breast thanks to a dip in the bodice of a strapless navy dress.

Who knows what these pieces will look like if and when they land at retailers like Net-A-Porter. But there were a few pieces that appeared to (almost) already be poised for commercial success like a white mini dress with extra-long bell sleeves, a cornflower-blue gingham check coat, a plaid assym mini skirt that mimicked the flaps of a suit jacket, and some wide-leg trousers. But it was the mini dresses and crop tops that were a continuation of Jacquemus’ reconstruction of the dress shirt, which has become his calling card. They’re the kind of instantly recognizable pieces to clients and those in-the-know that say “I’m wearing a Jacquemus.”