‘It Should Be Fun!’ Angie Mar Of Les Trois Chevaux On Why Fine Dining Is Just Like Fashion

by Freya Drohan

Have you heard the word? Sitting pretty on West 12th Street, Les Trois Chevaux has fast become the creative set’s go-to club house. On any given night, the chic surroundings are animated with a who’s who and in the know crowd that places equal value on the most enjoyable things in life: namely, getting dressed up in their finery to discover the city’s most delectable dishes from Executive Chef and Proprietor, Angie Mar. On a mission to “bring back the glamour and excitement” to the New York culinary scene, Mar is becoming one of the most talked-about authorities for a reason. We caught up with her to hear more—call us if you’re heading there for the Crabe Pithiviers anytime soon…you don’t need to ask us twice! 

How does fashion come into your day-to-day life? Have you always been interested in it?
I’ve always loved the world of fashion and I think that I have my mother to thank for that—she is truly one of the most fashionable women I know. For me, there is a crossroads where fashion, cuisine, art, and literature meet. The cultural impact when things are done at their highest level is so important, because it’s how we live our lives. The clothes we wear, the food we eat, the literature that we read.

You opened Les Trois Chevaux in July ‘21 and it was quickly named one of the best restaurants in America—what’s your overall dream for the future of the restaurant?
For me, the vision of Les Trois Chevaux has always been one that was meant to remind everyone of the narrative of fine dining cuisine. I am so honored that this early in its life, the dining community has recognized its vision. As for the future, my intention is for the restaurant to become one of the icons of cuisine in New York City.

You’re known for your ‘downtown interpretation of fine dining’—tell us more!
It’s interesting because I think so many of the journalists who solely write about food have taken the position that they want to only support restaurants that are cheap eats, casual, etc. But dining is very much like fashion, isn’t it? There is not a one size fits all, and that is something to be celebrated. Les Trois Chevaux seems to be very special in that respect—the restaurant is very classic and fine dining, but it’s downtown, unpretentious, and still very fun.

Tell us about the interiors—we know some touches are very near and dear to your heart!
I have always disdained restaurants that look like the designer picked up all items at Restoration Hardware. There really isn’t any soul or individuality when that happens! The interior of Les Trois Chevaux is tremendously special; every touch was either custom, curated, or vintage. The dark, inky blue velvet is done in the color of my father’s favorite sweatshirt. The horse lamps that adorn the bar were found at an antiquities dealer in Antwerp, and are similar to the Tang Dynasty horses I grew up with in my childhood home. The chandelier and MacBeth pendants were restored from the original Waldorf Astoria circa 1931, and of course there is our art collection which I am quite proud of! We have a Fini, a Picasso, a Banksy, a watercolor gifted from my dear friend Chef Jacques Pepin, and several pieces from my family’s personal collection.

You hosted some fashion week happenings last season too; tell us about them.
It was really wonderful last season, as we opened NYFW with Anna Wintour’s Vogue 100 dinner. It has been incredible to have forged ongoing partnerships with some of the most influential brands and publications.

What kind of crowd do you usually see in the dining room?
The thing I love, and have always loved about New York City, is that it’s a place where everyone not only co-exists, but mingle together. The opening of Les Trois Chevaux has brought back that glamour and excitement for me, and it’s absolutely become a place to see, be seen, and enjoy a wonderful atmosphere.

Guide us through a typical dining experience at Les Trois Chevaux; what can guests expect?
We have a multiple course Prix-Fixe in our Main Dining Room, and we offer à la carte dining for our Bar Experience. Our entire restaurant is by reservation only, as I think there needs to be a formality to the dining experience. Everyone is always dressed, as we do have a strict dress code (for example men must wear a jacket) and I love that New Yorkers have been so thrilled to turn out looks again. After two years of pandemic and quarantine sweats, everyone is so thrilled to dress up! Our philosophy at Les Trois Chevaux is that we want to give our guests the experience that they never knew they needed. There are plenty of places in New York to eat, but very few where you can truly dine.

Tell us about your aunt, Ruby Chow, and her advocacy work. How does her influence shape you as a person/businesswoman?
My Auntie Ruby was a tremendously important figure in my life, and I feel that although she is gone, I am still learning from her. She was a force, and her advocacy work for the Chinese community is something that years later, we still need to take a proactive stance on. Her presence in my life very much formed how I run my business today and how I view the world. She taught me from a very young age that no one would hand me anything, and that to be able to carve out space for myself in the world, it would take guts and guile. She also taught me the value of family and keeping the family together. It’s something that we take seriously within my team, especially as we’ve grown and evolved over the years.

How would you spend a perfect day off in New York?
I rarely get them nowadays but when I am off, I like to spend my day getting inspired. I love going to Sotheby’s to view some of the works that will go for auction. I spend a lot of time reading old French cookbooks, and I love to dine at my local favorites.

What’s your style like when you’re off-duty?
My style is very fluid depending on the weather and my mood. I love clothes that are classic and will stand the test of time. My style is often a blend of feminine and masculine, downtown, and uptown.

What designers do you love and where do you like to shop?
Lately, I have been wearing a lot of Burberry, Bottega, Chanel, and LAPOINTE—Sally [LaPointe] is a very dear friend and I love her designs. I love designs in muted tones and monochrome looks that I can feel very feminine and put together, but still at ease and comfortable.

What’s always in your bag during the work week?
Lately, a lot of hand sanitizer! I always carry by Terry Baume de Rose and an oxygenating face cream. I have a notebook that I love to jot ideas down in, but I like to keep things simple.

Can you give us some must-try menu items ahead of our next visit?
The Truffles & Caviar is absolutely a must try as it’s become a standard at Les Trois Chevaux. Our menu is very seasonal, and changes quite often as I like to continue to stay fluid with our creations. But the Crabe Pithiviers is a dish that I think is so lovely and perfect. The Cuisses de Grenouille is also something that should never be missed.

What are you most excited for in 2022?
I am feeling very excited about this year as now that Les Trois Chevaux is open, and we have hit our stride. I am elated to continue to change the menu, to look for new projects, and to contribute to helping bring the New York that I know and love back.

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