Forget strong retro references teetering on the brink of kitsch: Christophe Lemaire went timeless and exceedingly luxe for his final collection at Hermès. The pristine sand lining the catwalk at the show, held at Luxembourg Gardens’ l’Orangerie Férou, lent a desert oasis vibe to things, and coordinated with the first 16 or so neutral looks, as well as the closing handful of ensembles. Lemaire’s elegant wardrobe for Spring is devoid of bells and whistles but incredibly put-together. The parade of cream, white, and khaki looks melded sharp tailoring with breezy-looking silhouettes. Button-downs abounded, tunics and cowl-necked dresses had a decidedly futuristic vibe, trou were considerably loose, and there were quite a few well-executed toppers to lust after. Just a couple of looks had color, mostly in the form of mellow patterns peppered throughout the show, each bearing a different print, plus a sweetly ruched, empire-waisted finale look in marigold. What will Lemaire’s successor, Nadège Vanhee–Cybulski, turn out for the storied maison? Hopefully more of the same serene sophistication.