Fashion Month has wrapped, and wow was there a lot to dissect! From front row surprises to robots, quirky collabs, and tributes, here are ten things that we couldn’t stop talking about at the water cooler.
Gloria Steinem at Michael Kors
Michael Kors’ Fall Winter ’23 collection was inspired by feminist icons of the ’60s and ’70s—in his own words, “the women that intrigued me then and still intrigue me today are the women who break the rules.” This collection included a belt that paid homage to the social activist and era-defining style icon Gloria Steinem, who was in attendance at the show. Steinem, who celebrated the 50 year anniversary of founding the magazine Ms. this year, even received a round of applause across the runway from fellow show-goer, Molly Ringwald.
Gloria Steinem at Michael Kors (BFA)
Absence of plus-sized representation at NYFW
While it appeared the industry was making strides in years past, size inclusivity was definitely lacking this season at New York Fashion Week. While there were plus-size models ruling the runways at the likes of Christian Siriano, Carolina Herrera, Coach, Prabal Gurung, Sergio Hudson, and Thom Browne—where Precious Lee closed the show—there was a distinct lack of diversity evident overall. A theory forwarded by Business of Fashion posited that this could be related to the rise in Y2K fashion, and a reversion to the (often problematic) beauty ideals of that era. Gulp.
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Micro trend alert! Bows and ribbons a’plenty
Bows and ribbons were both integrated into, and integral to, many of the distinctive looks turned out during Fashion Month. Sandy Liang opted for both statement bows and ribbon details in hairstyling, evoking nostalgia of girlhood, while the likes of Rodarte and Simone Rocha used the feminine detail to accent more vampy looks.
Simone Rocha FW ’23 (Daniel Sims)
Daniel Lee’s debut for Burberry
Daniel Lee presented his first show as creative director at Burberry during the London Fashion Week schedule. Lee, known for catapulting Bottega Veneta into the zeitgeist again in recent years, announced his move to the heritage house earlier this year. The British designer began by starting afresh on Burberry’s branding, creating a new logo and launching the inaugural campaign under his lead. As for the garments themselves, his new direction for the brand saw lots of colorful plaid and edgier takes on traditional Burberry motifs.
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- Burberry FW ’23
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- Burberry FW ’23
Diesel’s condom mountain
A runway moment that had the fashion community abuzz was the ginormous mountain of condoms used as a backdrop for the Diesel runway show. While collaborations are not uncommon in the fashion industry, teaming up with Durex for this display was an innovative expression of the brand’s identity under tGlenn Martens. The show oozed sex too, with ultra low rise pants, distressed denim, leather, and latex sashaying down the runway.
Diesel FW ’23
Kendall and Gigi walked for Prada
It was a largely supermodel-less season—although shout out to Irina Shayk, EmRata, and Precious Lee in NYC—until the Prada show took place in Milan. Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid both appeared on the runway, having both opted to walk in one show, and one show only, this season. Meanwhile, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons shook up uniform codes once more with this corporate-with-a-twist collection.
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A beautiful Paco Rabanne tribute
The Paco Rabanne show celebrated the legacy of its namesake designer, who died last month. The collection included a collaboration with the Dalí foundation, in honor of the designer’s relationship with the art world icon and fellow Spaniard. Rabanne’s influence was unmistakable on the runway through use of metallics, feathers, chainmail, and vibrant colors—not least the five takes on original Paco Rabanne looks which concluded the show.
Paco Rabanne FW ’23
A love letter to Vivienne Westwood
A tribute show was held in Paris for the late Vivienne Westwood in honor of her revolutionary impact on the landscape of fashion. Westwood’s longtime collaborator and husband, Andreas Krothaler, dedicated this show to her legacy and most famous designs over the decades. The memory of Dame Viv was omnipresent—from the use of upcycled fabrics, tartan, and punchy color palettes to the dramatic silhouettes, corsets, and 18th century references. The punk priestess’ influence was not confined to the runway: attendees such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Jared Leto, and Julia Fox embodied her whole aesthetic while sitting front row. The show was also closed by Westwood’s granddaughter, Cora Corré.
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The rise of runway theatre
Fashion shows have always been experiential endeavors, but not necessarily overshadowing the clothes. In recent seasons, however, there has been a move towards the theatrical that goes beyond set design and music. Noticeably so when Coperni showcased the spray-on dress on Bella Hadid for Spring Summer 23 (reminiscent of Alexander McQueen’s Spring 1999 show.) It appears that this marketing approach is here to stay too, as this season, the brand employed robot dogs to interact with the models.
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Mia Goth, Emma Corrin, and Zaya Wade walked for Miu Miu
In another viral moment, Miu Miu casted actors Mia Goth, Emma Corrin, and Zaya Wade to walk in the Fall Winter ’23 show. This collection included plenty of sheer garments which has been a notable trend (see also: collections from Saint Laurent, Etro, and Diesel to name but a few.) Another projected trend showcased in this collection was tights and underwear. They’re on the money too: between TikToker and Kendall Jenner, it seems like everyone is about to embrace this risqué look.
Miu Miu FW ’23
Tommy Cash, Tyga, and Avril Lavigne at Y/Project
Call the paps! Tyga and Avril Lavigne attended the Y/Project show in matching leather outfit—thus confirming their romantic involvement. The couple were pictured sitting front row together alongside Estonian rapper Tommy Cash who was equally eye-catching, clad in a duvet and pajamas. Only at Paris Fashion Week!
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Written by Fearthainn Sweeney Casby
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