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The Face: Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2017

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Margiela was all about outerwear this season at haute couture, but the one piece that everyone is and will be talking about is the tailored, floor-sweeping white coat emblazoned with a face in smokey black gauze. It was the look of the collection, closely followed by the billowing black cloak that closed the show.

Ever feel like people can see right through you? Body armor came deconstructed in the form of cut-out coats that revealed the dress or garment underneath. Some dresses were also cut similarly to reveal the models’ undergarments. Each hung like a skeleton on the body, leaving the figure beneath exposed. A heart-shaped lock adorned a suit jacket while sequined red hearts embellished the sleeves of a coat. Wearing one’s heart on a sleeve, exposure, facing the future, hiding behind hats and veils…the references to creative John Galliano’s past seem obvious, but the themes of this collection could also apply to the current chaos that seems to be touching every corner of the globe. Either way, Margiela’s meaning remains cloaked in secret now that Galliano prefers to stay behind-the-scenes.

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