Inspired by the 1920’s and Paul Poiret, the Cushnie Fall 2019 collection explored the art of draping and drew inspiration
from the simplistic elegance and asymmetry of Ikebana, the Japanese art of flower arrangement — namely as it’s interpreted in “Shadowplay,” a series by Dutch collage artist, Nicola Kloosterman. An evolution of the clean, feminine nature of the Cushnie aesthetic, this season introduced a heightened feeling of decadence — utilizing lush textures, novelty fabrications, intricate embroidery, and an added element of layering.
Poiret’s affinity for draping and Japanese-inspired silhouettes informed the exploration of shape and volume — slim,
tailored silhouettes were given a sense of ease and movement through the use of pleats and tucks, and a fresh sense of fluidity was introduced through bias slip dresses, A-line skirts, and wide-leg pants. Artful draping creates belted waists, asymmetric necklines and 1920’s-inspired scarf detailing — often trimmed with layered fringe or tassels.
Prints this season offered modernized interpretations of traditional Japanese woodblocking — seen in bold geometric and
abstract floral iterations. Custom “Ikebana” embroidery was designed using velvet sequins and fringed beading — mimicking the layout and technique of Japanese floral arrangements, which places the emphasis on shape, line, and form.
The Daily caught up with the designer after the show to talk more about the collection and her imminent birth of her first child.
First let’s address the elephant in the room! When is the baby due and how are you feeling?
I’m feeling good! She’s moving about a bit. I’m due in April.
We couldn’t help but think of the story we did a long time ago when we took you out looking for a guy.
That’s no longer!
Let’s talk about this season.
It’s very rich and very decadent this season. I was looking at a lot of rich colors. I was looking at the work of Paul TK from the 1920s. I was inspired a lot by Japan so that was the jump off point for the collection. I looked at his play of volume and his inspirations and Japanese.
Your casting last season was really interesting.
I always try to be as diverse as possible. It’s about finding a great woman to represent the clothes and for her to feel good and her best.
Maybelline New York is throwing you a baby shower on Monday. What do you really want for the baby?
I want her to be really small and come out really quickly!
What about gifts?
I have to figure out some mommy-and-me outfits!
Do you want your daughter to work in fashion?
I want her to do whatever she wants!
Check out the rest of the Cushnie Fall 2019 collection below.