English sculptor Henry Moore’s monumental bronze sculptures served as inspiration for Christopher Bailey’s second see now, buy now collection for Burberry. But Bailey didn’t only use Moore’s ideas as inspiration for new sculptural shapes at Burberry, he also used Moore’s actual sculptures and interspersed them throughout the runway. As you might imagine, that must have been no small feat. The diminutive Penelope Cruz sat perched next to Moore’s enormous “Mother and Child” sculpture, while Anna Wintour sat across from “Draped Mother and Reclining Baby.” The sculptural setting was made possible by the Henry Moore Foundation, and also cued the opening to a free weeklong exhibition, “Henry Moore: Inspiration and Process,” in Soho in central London. The exhibit will feature 40 of Moore’s sculptures, bronzes, drawings, and maquettes.
As for the clothing, the sculptural lines and proportions were a rethinking of Burberry’s traditional icons, from the trench coat and cape to the classic white dress shirt and British knitwear. The highlights were the slightly askew one-shouldered cream knits worn over shirt dresses with lace accents and the exquisite Elizabethan-style caplets adorne with feathers, lace, and crystals worn over delicate sheer lace dresses. Burberry was known first for its capes in the 19th century, and every iteration, right down to the cape-like ruffled sleeves of two finale dresses, were wonderfully modern interpretations with just the right dose of a nod to their original era.