Bill Gaytten has been quietly proving he’s a master in his own right despite the enormous task of taking over a brand whose name still belongs to its founder, who happens to be a living legend (sometimes for better, sometimes for worse). The highlights of this collection were the dresses: a stunning lilac chiffon gown, a peach chrysanthemum embroidered silk dress, and a plum lamé column gown. But the tailoring of the coats and the bar suit that opened the show also proved his talent. To crown his achievements, Gaytten topped off the looks with fabulous fur saucer hats by Stephen Jones.
How to top off a runway show turned dance party? Do it again! Models walked to George Michael’s “Faith,” “All You Need Is Love” by The Beatles, and “Brujas” by Princess Nokia before dancing their way down the runway for the finale. As for the clothes, McCartney infused her signature dose of joie into plaid and expertly tailored suiting, monochromatic jumpsuits, and short shift dresses. Equestrian motifs like horse illustrations, a popular theme during her days at Chloé, also saw a revival. Vintage-style bras hidden underneath sheer eveningwear were real “girls just want to have fun” moments, a sentiment that is never lost on McCartney, a timeless queen of cool girls.
Chitose Abe is the mix master of fashion known for concocting the coolest ensembles from the most unusual fabric combinations. This season she took plush down puffers and upped the ante by trimming them in fur. That high-low notion permeated the collection in pieces like a bouclé windbreaker, a track sweater adorned with fringe, and denim with lace and silk accents. Just when you think you can’t possibly see a new version of a puffer, Abe comes along and reminds you the possibilities are endless.
Giambattista Valli consistently turns out an ultrafeminine runway, and this season was no different. Cinched corseted waists, ruffles, lace, and Victorian necklines were aplenty. But it was the reimagined LBD that was the center of attention, which came in the form of a billowing peasant blouse paired with Nike leggings and lace-up peep-toe boots. Seems like the athleisure trend has found its way to even the richest echelons of fashion.
Some of the most appealing looks at Hermès were the ones that look like they could be found on Madison Avenue or the 16th arrondissement. There was a full leather black suit (what could be richer than a leather Hermès suit?) and few cool moto jackets, one of which was paired with a mildly punk pair of pink check pants. And those boots were so divine, they would be right at home everywhere from The Carlyle to Paul’s Casablanca—not that you would want to treat your Hermès to the latter. But there were plenty of classics too, like a chic scarf dress or a monochrome mustard yellow suit that screamed the kind of elegance that’s synonymous with the French house.
Moncler Gamme Rouge
A Fall forest was created as the spectacular runway at Moncler Gamme Rouge. There were hiking bags, rolled up sleeping mats, plaid coats, and bouclé Bermuda shorts worn over tights (a trend that has developed at the close of Paris Fashion Week). Giambattista Valli’s particular brand of glamping is one we would like to sign up for.
Kym Ellery built her DNA on the bell sleeve and bell pant. This season she played with sleeves in new proportions. The pouffy princess sleeve was center stage and it was anything but saccharine. This label has developed a certain caché with sophisticated cool girls for its mix of feminine and edgy. That ruched black puff sleeve body clinger? Yes, please! The black leather cropped pants? Already on the Fall shopping list. The patent puffer? A no-brainer. There was hardly anything in this collection that didn’t elicit a burning desire to put a major dent on the Visa card. Even the shoes were perfectly on point.
Shroom heads! Miuccia Prada was revisiting the ’70s again at Miu Miu and it was every bit as fun as Prada. Models wore giant furry mushroom hats. The quirkiest of them all was a green and white check version worn with oversized coordinating oven mitts. The look was half-baked, a mix of elegant ’40s attire worn with accessories that were channeling Super Mario Brothers’ characters. There were some extra cool new ideas around the puffer jacket—these came trimmed in glam fur shawl collars. There was a trippy swirly orange sherbet fur and a purple peacock print dress with feathers that fanned out into the pleats of the skirt. The sequined paillette dresses and the floral -hemmed minis were begging to be taken out for a night on the town. Needless to say, Miuccia hit all the high notes.