Gothic Lolita! Hanako Maeda is at her best when infusing elements of Japanese culture into contemporary silhouettes. For Fall ’17, she interpreted Harajuku through a ’90s lens. Platform Mary Janes, ring chokers, and dramatically proportioned sleeves are nothing especially new, but Maeda’s twists and tweaks ensure that novelty is always achieved. Dark romance came courtesy of a mash-up of pearls, silks, and lace, while crisp shirtdresses and fur-trimmed outerwear will appeal to clients who’ve had enough of the sweetness. To celebrate her brand’s fifth year, Maeda ended the show with a bang: Japanese artist Shishido Kavka performed a set on the drums to hammer home this designer’s powerful attitude.