Dries van Noten Spring 2016

Vast concrete warehouse spaces are the show venue of choice for designers showing in Paris that choose not to show in the Palais de Tokyo, the Grand Palais or the Tuileries. At 107, rue du Chemin Vert, guests filed into a courtyard where street style mavens preened for the cameras pre-show. As everyone found their seats, perhaps one of our favorite fashion week moments of the season thus far was the pit of photographers yelling “meow” to Anna Wintour as she quickly found her front row perch.

A string quartet opened the show and slew of très Dries pattern heavy looks with a 30s and 40s slant trotted down the runway. To what does Dries van Noten owe his success? Tailoring aside, it’s his masterful mix of colors and prints, textures and embellishments, structure and fluidity. Menswear, a perennial focus, was one cornerstone for spring ’16; oversized jackets (in petal pink and coral, as well as blown-up checks) are the major takeaway. They look freshest paired with long, loose trousers, diaphanous gowns, and printed pants. A pale purple gown with a feathery pink pattern and feathery sequins worn by Jamie Bochert was particularly outstanding. If ornate fabrics are your thing, well, this collection is essential—you’ll find more brilliant (and surely pricey) statement pieces than even a maximalist can handle. That being said, in van Noten’s world, more is more, so whether you’re game for a full prints-on-prints situation or prefer to opt for an embroidered jacket, consider yourself outfitted.