Vionnet Fall 2015
There’s been quite a bit of press around Vionnet’s creative director Goga Ashkenazi, given the former energy magnate’s lack of formal design training, a social life worthy of the tabloids, and a very healthy fortune. Backstory aside, how are the clothes? This season involved a flurry of long, slim silhouettes interposed with a healthy mix of textures and fabrics. The story was based on the concept of destruction and the depletion of beauty, a point that was driven by a swoop of decaying flowers hovering above the catwalk. While the show started off with a slew of pastel looks in delicate silk, the show progressed into B&W combos, in addition to a stellar crackle print that adorned suiting separates. Mini capes in heavy black wool, printed fur, and a delicately woven golden fabric made quite a few appearances, as did body harnesses in colorful stripes of elastic. But the evening garb was most effective here, whether that meant a wisp of an evening gown in black chiffon or a heavily beaded blue and black frock, accessorized with a rolling suitcase. While this collection may have been delightfully skewed across categories and concepts, it was definitely more than just a few pretty dresses.