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Vionnet Couture Fall 2014

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For Hussein Chalayan‘s demi-couture show chez Vionnet, pleating was the premise for most of the collection, which was comprised almost entirely of evening gowns. They had the same technical arty flair for which Chalayan’s designs have come to be known. Take, for instance, a navy blue strapless organza gown with subtle hints of white piping with a 3-D spine of fabric that wrapped down the leg. Other iterations of this technique were seen on a stunning red high-collared dress that slit down the front as the spinal construction lined the hem on one side or a grey one shoulder gown where the spine curved around the shoulder.

Other interesting techniques included gowns with gathered fabric that fanned out at the hip, or on the front of the skirt and looked a bit like gathered drapes. The same detailing also appeared on short cocktail dresses with a train of fanning fabric that were paired with short fur coats. And then, of course, there was the long white lace shift gown with a large cutout, from which pleated fabric spilled, conjuring a bleeding heart. Although it was the least wearable, it was pretty symbolic of how Chalayan pours his heart and soul into thinking outside the box.

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