Paul Smith – London Fall 2014
(LONDON) PAUL SMITH
After navigating treacherous slush and frigid temps all week, Marc provided the perfectly dreamy adieu to NYFW, composed of soft, sumptuous hues, cozy knits, and easy silhouettes. Floaty ruffles and prints that resembled wind gusts mimicked the whimsical cloud formation suspended overhead throughout the Armory on Lexington Ave. (The billowing masses were whipped up, per usual, by set design maestro Stefan Beckman.) The serene palette cleanser of a collection was comprised of icy neutrals and clean shapes imbued with thoughtful, rich detailing, with undertones of the ’70s. Curvy, swirly motifs, reminiscent of marbled paper, cropped up on liquid-like beaded dresses as well as flared tunics. A luxe riff on the sweatsuit came via ribbed knit separates, some supersheer, sporting deep V-necks and long hems slouched over metallic-spiked sneakers. Ombre fur chubbies offered a hit of volume and more plush textures. Pale visages and bluntly-cut bobbed wigs pulled back with wide headbands made the mods resemble mannequins, and didn’t compete with the clothes.
In lieu of traditional rows of seating that require minor contortionist maneuvers to squeeze into, guests sat on personal squishy white foam cylinders, laid out over row after row after row, affording front row seats for all. A single calla lily adorned each program (an early Valentine’s Day gesture, Marc?). As eds drifted out of the Armory, the torrential rain outside prompted déjà vu: downpour made a wet disaster of the city during Jacobs’ sullen, shipwreck chic Spring ’14 showing in September. But floating off of Jacobs’ newest fantasy into Mother Nature’s latest mess felt a whole lot more serene this time around.