Paris Spring 2014: Issey Miyake, Hussein Chalayan, Isabel Marant
(PARIS) Issey Miyake
Pleats please! In a season rife with pleating, leave it to a company whose slogan is built around the design to put a new spin on the concept. The show, which took place in the Tuileries, opened with Ei Wada playing electronic sounds on a series of TV screens that lit up with sound as he touched them. Meanwhile, models in all white opened the show in what looked like stiff leather pieces with seams resembling flattened pleats, forming a white wrap skirt. The lines conjured a fan pattern, and it was paired with a boxy white jacket. Pleating came in extreme forms in other looks, like a white dress shirt that seemed folded in origami fashion. These ultra-pleated pieces were worn with matching crop pants or a black dress coat and crop paints whose open pleats revealed grey in the folds. Then, there were pieces like white shorts and a lightweight black jacket in a grid pattern that seemed to mimic the brand’s famous Bilboa rock bags (which your Daily has been seeing on eds everywhere this PFW). Standout pieces came in an almost prism like rainbow pattern in a short sleeve button down and matching knee-length skirt plus bold gradient stripe patterns in cherry red and bright blues that gave the visual effect of pleating. We also spotted a few stellar perforated folded leather clutches in B&W. Better snap them up before everyone else does!
Well known for his avant-garde taste and artwork-like pieces, Hussein Chalayan designed a Spring 2014 collection that was unmistakably wearable, albeit playful nonetheless. Opening the show with a dress that appeared to be an exact replica of a terry cloth pool towel, wrapped at the bust, the collection clearly drew inspiration from the joys of the summer months. A blurry beach scene was printed on silk shapes—and the fabrics were light, sheer, and appropriate for the steamy dog days of summer spent at a seaside resort. Chalayan infused a few of his signature quirks into the collection; turning a rubber hat into an umbrella and seamlessly attaching jackets to tops and dresses, allowing one piece to act as two, as shown when the models slipped off their overcoats. A collection of sexed-up evening dresses were presented with sweetheart necklines, thigh-high slits and molded draping, quite a departure for the designer. The closing looks featured woven strips of plastic, contrasted against flowing white silks were a warm reminder of not only Chalayan’s brilliance, but that those golden summer months aren’t really that far away.
Every pretty young thing is always looking for that perfect floral or white lace dress come Spring. But is it ever short enough without being too short? Are the ruffles just right without being too girly? Where is that perfect black slip dress when you need it? Isabel Marant has her girls covered. Her infamous cool girl chic vibe has been growing her brand into a powerhouse and this season she didn’t stray. And while it was much more feminine this season, lacy white tops with ruffles at the sleeves were paired with shiny, slouched leather pants to toughen it up. The length of a floral white lace dress tied with a low-slung black ribbon was just short enough to be sexy without being smutty (something Kate Moss might pull off effortlessly). Florals also came in mini-dresses and looked more Coachella than Hamptons, but could be pulled off at both. Plus, some of the perforated grid-like graphic jackets were standouts. And a simple black slip dress that might look ho-hum (and will probably cost more than your average slip) will be just what her cult following of cool girls will want to snatch up. Because it will be…just right.