Runway

Paris Fall 2014: Valentino, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

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(NEW YORK) Valentino
Following a dreamy Couture showing exalting the opera, Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli opted for a peppier, more modern inspiration for Fall: Italian Pop art. The result? Groovy florals and prints bursting with bright hues. The dot-ladden motifs came in a sunny combo of white, black, rouge, and bubblegum pink as well as a more subdued, very ‘70s palette of olive  Besides the cheerful, straightforward midi-length trenches, toppers excelled thanks to a slew of capes, including a whimsical grey one strewn with butterflies. Minidresses sporting flared hems, long sleeves, and collars looked exceedingly wearable and chic, especially in a signature-Valentino crimson shade. After the graphic, extremely Pop Art-inflected pieces were trotted out, it was onto brocades and gauzy patchworks of lace, done as minidresses, leather separates, and more. The show proceeded to get subsequently more ethereal and formal, and while the sheer, tulle-dominated gowns that made up the latter quarter or so of the show weren’t as obviously Italian Pop Art-hewn, they were unabashedly gorgeous and very, very Valentino.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Last season Jean-Charles de Castelbajac combined his love for art and fashion and infused that into his Spring collection. He followed that same route for Fall, but presented looks seen through a cleaner lens. The colorways were less jarring, the hues were deeper, and the pieces erred on the side of wearable rather than artful. Last season, an image of a face was heavily present, but this season it was miniaturized and used on fur sweatshirts and on wrap cardigans. Suit jackets were surprisingly fashioned into skirts and pants, with lapels circling the waist, laying the ground for many playful pieces to follow. A grape purple coat was fashioned out of loops of fabric, a cartoon-esque profile was created with fur on a wool shift, and galaxies of stars were spread across skirts, tops, jackets, and more. Among items to lust over: a camel mohair moto jacket with exaggerated details, and a snow white trench paired with all-white accessories. Heeled pumps and booties with an ankle strap came in a rainbow of colors, each one with a pair of coordinating ankle socks, providing a prim and proper touch to each look. With all the fun clothing, the beauty look was slightly more subdued; the mods boasted bare faces, save for a swipe of pigmented eye shadow, and a swept-back ‘do. All the better to appreciate the clothes, non

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