Paris Fall 2013: Guy Laroche, Rochas
(PARIS) Guy Laroche
It was all about le femme fatale at Marcel Marongiu‘s show for Guy Laroche at Paris’ Grand Palais. To set the tone, a black knee-length dress with a dangerously high slit and harness-like leather detailing at the top worn with a suede and fur accented moto jacket opened the show. Strappy leather harness bras were a recurrent theme, like a navy pantsuit look worn with nothing underneath but tough-chic lingerie. For evening, sequins surfaced, often paired with wide leg black pants. The contrasting male/female theme continued with full-on fuchsia trou paired with biker-inflected toppers, like a cropped moto or sleeveless zippered wool coat-vest. Vibrant purple was another color that popped on pieces like a silk necktie-framed blouse with big ruched sleeves worn with matching flared pants, thus nailing that pervasive ’70s vibe du season. Of particular note: Marongiu outdid himself with some of the outerwear pieces. Also on offer: a navy cape dress with high armholes and ponyhair storm flaps, or a leather jacket with exaggerated, layered lapels (also sporting hints of ponyhair) are exquisite interpretations of the cape or leather jacket themes, for those trying to wade through the sea of options this season. Chicly ferocious!
Size matters! It was all about playing with proportions, as far as Marco Zanini‘s latest Rochas showing was concerned. Exaggerated silhouettes, like a maroon oversized sweater or a ’50s floral swing coat and skirt weren’t just voluminous, they were big enough to fit at least two of the wispy models strutting them down the catwalk. Some of the getups came addled with swing skirts flaring out to the ankles, instead of simply below the knee. Another outfit involved a checked tweed jacket worn over a maroon sweater paired with a blush pink ankle-length skirt. The result? Feminine, yet slouchy boyfriend-borrowed in scale. A burgundy fur cape coat and black house coat were worn wide for statement-making outerwear. Some of these ’50s references also wove in a bit of late ’80s to early ’90s references (ah, the cycle of fashion!) like a slim blush-hued, ankle-length skirt worn with an earthy brown sweater and a big lime green blazer. The casually cool result was one that we swear is straight out of Lara Flynn Boyle‘s Twin Peaks wardrobe.