NYFW Spring 2014: Tory Burch, Naeem Khan, Elie Tahari, Catherine Malandrino
(NEW YORK) Tory Burch
Tory Burch’s latest showing went down in the David Koch theatre’s grand hall, ever the regal setting. Ever the scene, after three looks, Emmy Rossum leaned over to Brad Goreski and announced, “You were right, green is really the ‘it’ color.” And how right he was! Nearly every one of the looks that went down the runway had at least a hint of green, and often more of the verdant hue. Queen Anne’s lace decorated silk tees, jackets, pants, and dresses, while the same silhouettes were adapted in a simple cream color and embellished with a jewel collar. The bags were quite eye-catching this season, thanks to gilded handles or peek-a-boo windows to the inside contents. As there’s always a touch of kitsch to the Burch designs, woven baskets were sent down the runway with fresh flowers packed inside. How sweet!
Set against a background of wild fauna, Naeem Khan took the crowd on a glamorous trip south of the border. Romantic, sheer gowns were embroidered with an interpretation of Mexican ceramics, first in a lipstick red, followed by a deeper oxblood shade. There was a bit of literal interpretation in the collection, in the form of a peasant top and a trumpet skirt combo, apt for an eve of salsa dancing. The rest of the collection was modernized: caftans glammed up and ready for the red carpet, well as a bright beaded crop top paired with a black skirt. The rather Frida Kahlo-esque hair was offset by pairs of Pamela Love earrings which unconventionally adorned the back of each earlobe. And how could we forget the beautiful wedding gown that closed the show? Announcing Khan’s bridal line, that is set to launch mid-October, the gown and veil were smothered in embroidery, similar to the saris of the designer’s native India. A haute way to get hitched if we’ve ever seen it.
It’s been quite the week for Elie Tahari. Well, actually it’s been quite the year for the designer, as he celebrates his 40th year in the biz. Following a day named in his honor, Tahari presented a collection with pieces that span the history of the four decades he’s put in time as a designer at his namesake label. Located at his experimental flagship store on Fifth Avenue, the afternoon was just that! Out front, models posed in the windows, while the inside was transformed into a scene straight out of a sci-fi movie, all white, all curves and altogether mysterious. The back of the store held all the male mods, dressed in casual garb in shades of blue, black grey and white. The crew was dotted with leather jackets, wide knit sweaters and blazers on top, matched with tailored pants, and chic shorts, both of which was showing a lot of ankle. The ladies, who were scattered about the store on elevated platforms, sported some seriously detailed pieces. In an homage all the collections since 1974, select pieces in today’s presentation were actually updated on previous silhouettes. Drawing from the future and the power of the Silicon Valley, Tahari created a vest out of silicone and added the synthetic to other details on the clothing. Perforated leather coats, silken pants and eyelet separates added to the white factor of it all, but there were pops of color in a hot pink outfit and in a birds of paradise print that covered a neoprene-like dress and casual track pants. â€¨â€¨
When in Saint Tropez, one can bronze à la plage, or one can take advantage of the city’s vast boating history. Catherine Malandrino did the latter, basing the collection on her time spent at Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, a sailboat competition. Backstage, Malandrino told The Daily that “it’s a place where old boats are sitting next to new boats and the contradiction makes for a really intense dynamic.” Drawing from the juxtaposition of old and new, Malandrino put sporty anoraks next to modernized, draped jumpsuits and sailboat printed tunics were neighbors to sexy red cutout tops. One piece that was neither new nor old, but rather just right now, was an off-the-shoulder blue and white striped tee paired with a full white skirt, the proportions of which felt fresh and new. While the collection contained bright pops of color in bright blue and bright pink, the slew of whites, in the form of lacey dresses, cotton eyelet shirt dresses and embroidered button downs easily sailed to victory.