NYFW Fall 2014: Peter Som, Erin Fetherston, Tess Giberson, Creatures of the Wind, Zimmermann
(NEW YORK) Peter Som
What do you get when you mix a ’60s go-go girl and a tech-adoring millennial? Peter Som’s Fall wares. Rocking a deep side part, the collection started with a head of slept-in tresses and continued with the rest of the outfits, like look une: a belted pea coat in cobalt that errs on the side of classic, aside from an unfinished hem. That same cobalt made an appearance on a leather shift, complete with a turtleneck and a smattering of sequins. The ’60s then bled into the ’70s, with the introduction of leopard print and a prevalence of caramel colored pieces. And then, there were graphics. Most importantly, a blurred floral that plays tricks on the eyes. The flowers bloomed on orange shift dresses, grey coats, but did their job best on the evening-apropos black tulle. Just don’t stare for too long: side effects include feeling drunk with obsession.
If spring was all about the ultimate garden party, Erin Fetherston’s Fall 2014 collection is the uniform for the ultimate cocktail soiree. True to her ultra-feminine aesthetic, this season’s sweet silhouettes took on a decidedly retro feel with fifties-esque bell-shaped gowns alongside short ’60s-inspired minis. Floral starred as the leading motif in this collection, appearing in big-bloomed prints, rosette appliqué, and flowery lace. Some favorites were the head to toe lace gown with a plunging neckline in shades of green that had us, well, envious. Also, a swingy black slip dress with a voluminous hem was layered with a sheer, nude lace tunic and paired with sheer gloves (by Hardly Alice for Erin Fetherston) dotted with black appliqué petals that appeared to have landed like tiny butterflies on the model’s hands. On the more casual side, perfect for say, high tea—all black separates that were anything but plain; a breezy circle skirt with a sheer stripe and mohair sweater embroidered with the collection’s title: “Charmed, I’m sure.” For the perfect finishing touch to the Barbizon Hotel-inspired collection, a refined half moon manicure, custom created by MISS POP for KISS. A scripted E for Erin was painted on the mods’ ring finger nails as an accent. Charming, indeed.
Like flipping through an L.L. Bean catalogue, the Tess Giberson show was just like flipping the pages from one winter-basic to another. “I took those classic pieces and applied to it the game of telephone,” Giberson explained. “You know, when you whisper one word from person to person and it ends up sounding like a totally different thing when it reaches the last person.” Which turned out to be the perfect explanation for her deconstructed cable knit sweaters and modernized puffer coats. In addition, there were recreated white button downs, riffs on a tiny plaid, and a chunky knit cape. It may sound a bit bland, but Giberson punked it all up a bit, with touches of leather here, lengthy dresses there, and sheer fabrics abound. With the coif choice of a messy bun/ponytail hybrid, the countryside has never gotten such a chic redux.
Creatures of the Wind
Ever the democratic collection, Creatures of the Wind’s Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters offered up a little something for everyone this Fall. Seeking comfort? There was a velvet dress accessorized with a waist belt and a knit ribbed dress in white that ended at the ankle. For a tame take on midriff-flaunting, check out the duo’s forest green crop top, layered over a silk tank for coverage. For coat lovers there were plenty of options in pink wool, white silk, and black and white, with a stripe of mink. Elsewhere, there were kimono-inspired dresses, circular capes, and a fantastic golden brocade splashed on capri pants, wrap dresses, and blazers. The final touch woven throughout the collection? Butterflies! These transformational creatures landed on snaps, lapels, and even sleeve cuffs.
Leave it to trendsetting Australian designers Nicky and Simone Zimmermann to leave their mark on New York Fashion Week with a 1950s inspired collection title Cloud Stompers. Inspired by a photograph of the sisters’ father in the late 50’s, Zimmermann choose to investigate that era. “The Teddy Girls and, living in Australia of course, the Sharpies,” became their influences for the collection. The runway and, subsequently, the attitude of the collection transitioned from quiet and moody to loud and edgy by the end of the show. Opening with light-hearted turquoise sweater dresses and beige tunics, the season’s offering gradually gained a dark edge, steering towards black leather jumpsuits and lace tops. From the soft sweater dresses to the tough caged lace skirts the collection combines a feminine elegance with a rock n’ roll edge. Complete with hand beading and died lace details, Zimmerman’s Cloud Stompers collection will take you beyond your wildest dreams!