NYFW Fall 2013: Tommy Hilfiger, Y-3, Lela Rose, Joanna Mastroianni
(NEW YORK) Tommy Hilfiger
Check, mate! Hilfiger’s familiar terrain of preppy Americana got a tingle of Britain circa the swinging 60′s (namely, pivotal tailor Tommy Nuttter) for both lads and lasses this season. Hilfiger weighed in on the current menswear craze by means of Prince of Wales prints paired with houndstooth and herringbone. “It’s Saville Row meets Ivy League; it’s about graphic checks, plaids, argyle—very preppy!” Hilfiger told The Daily. “I love anything graphic this season. I like leather, suede, and miniskirts right now.” Especially fetching, and a little less showily on-theme, were those navy cableknits coated, sectionally, in matte black paint.
Attention, noir addicts! In case you hadn’t seen enough black to fill your wardrobe this season, Y-3’s latest should have you covered. Yamamoto kept the palette predominately black for his sportswear collection to emphasize his interest in playing with proportions. How did it size up? Men’s and women’s pants were cropped below the knees, to the calves, to the ankles, baggy and slim. Women’s skirts had uneven hemlines or existed as only half-skirts over suits. Dresses were zippered to the floor or pull overs. For men, color was introduced in spurts like a neon pair of drawstring shorts that fell below the knee or a orange, grey, and black camouflage made from an arrow pattern that resembled the FedEx logo. Fitting, since Yamamoto’s devoted fans will want their delivery stat.
Flights of fancy. Texture took shape on this designer’s rosy runway, ridden with quite a whimsical inspiration point: Grimm’s fairytales. Light fabrics like chiffon and feathers morphed into pretty pink ombres and pewter dresses, the lot of which were accented with airy lace. Dazzlingly dreamy, non? Rose always delivers on the pretty factor, devoid of excess frou frou.
You know you’re doing something right when Iris Apfel braves the slush for your show, Joanna Mastroianni! With a fall collection focusing on the modern pantsuit (and we’re not talking about Hillary Clinton circa her 1995 First Lady days, by the way) Mastroianni proved that a longstanding legacy in the business does not give way to boring clothes. The jacket/trouser combos were of the sheer bronze chiffon variety; others went the black embossed leather jacket and pant route. Particularly joyous, on the frock front: a pink minidress that shimmied down the runway, all sequins and organza and pure fun. Mastrioanni shows strengths in dresses but also understands that a statement coat is not to be overlooked. We’re talking plenty of long, fringy black goat hair on boleros (complete with a white racing stripe on the back for added interest). She recreated the LBD as a linear black dress, row of jet black beads lining the back and sides of a sheath dress. The last couple of gowns showed craftsmanship, but the audience clapped enthusiastically when a ruby red-hot gown with a sheer illusion halter front and dangerously sexy low back sashayed by. There’s something to be said for making an entrance, but isn’t it true that the exit is the last thing you remember?