Runway

NYFW Fall 2013: Jeremy Scott, Nanette Lepore, Elizabeth & James, Milly by Michelle Smith

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(NEW YORK) Jeremy Scott
The designer’s latest offering was typically Scott. Googley cartoon eyes, exploding brains, and pithy graphic t-shirts—”Adults Suck, Then You Are One,” “Too Weird To Live”—abounded. The imagery was inspired, Scott said, by West Coast skate culture and a generalized adolescent perspective on the world. Ironically, Scott brought a very adult kind of discipline to exploring that kind of anti-establishment juvenilia. His collection was very coherent, ranging from red plaid pleated pants like punks used to wear to pendant necklaces that bore the anarchy symbol. These clothes invite you to look, then say, “What are you looking at?” 

Nanette Lepore
Nanette Lepore’s vision for Fall is surprisingly sporty. She showed lots of outerwear with design elements borrowed from athletic wear, like zip-off hoods, and slouchy bomber jackets over tight little jackets. There was lots of leather, and some looks where embellished lace appeared almost three-dimensional. Lepore played with transparency, too, in looks like a fetching silk charmeuse blouse with graphic lacy panels over the shoulders. It was sexy and buttoned-up at the same time. 

Elizabeth & James
For their contemporary brand Elizabeth & James, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen concocted a collection full of enviable, well-fitting basics in mostly black and some muted tones of red, pastel pink, and blue. Leather overalls, a ’90s touch, looked slouchy and sexy. So did a quilted leather bomber, and a sweatshirt with strips of fur running down the sleeves, shown with loose-fitting pants and shiny black flats. 

Milly by Michelle Smith
On the menu for Fall courtesy of Milly’s Michelle Smith? Electric neon prints set against deep metallic greys and blacks for added pop. “I call this collection Illumination,” Smith told the Daily backstage. Meaning? “The beauty of city landscapes at night,” which translated to reflective materials, shimmering fabrics, and hologram effects. Wool double-breasted coats and textured leather jackets flew open as the models strutted, revealing underpinnings of sleek pencil skirts in cobalt and silver, pleated straight leg pants in deep violet, and fun metallic taffeta dresses. It was clear that Smith didn’t shy away from textural plays, evidenced by studded leather, laminated hologram pieces (with beautiful oversized purses to match) and fringe. The sartorial moments were as delightful as when Smith’s 6-year-old daughter, Sophia, ran onto the runway at the show’s close to jump into her mommy’s arms. Adorable much?

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