NYFW Fall 2013: Edun, Houghton, Tome, Sachin + Babi
(NEW YORK) Edun
On Thursday, Edun set up house at Skylight Studios to present their socially-conscious women’s line, and debut Edun homme with their new menswear designer Ricky Hendry, formerly of Calvin Klein Collection, Ralph Lauren, and Theory. As expected, co-founders Bono and wife Ali Hewson were on hand to fete the occasion off stage. On stage, Edun’s rock-chic coupling sported edgy ensembles comprised of printed plaid asymmetrical dresses, tops pierced with silver chains, and plenty of leather vests and downtown motos. “This debut season really captured Edun and the Edun man,” Hendry told The Daily post-show. “It was a combination of toughness and softness, strength and sensitivity.”
This season, Katharine Polk had a very specific muse in mind. “I was thinking about that Upper East Side grandmother in the seventies, staying at The Carlyle, covered in fur,” the designer said in an early preview days before her show at The Standard. On Thursday, Houghton’s aristocratic Park Avenue dame came through in an ombre lace silk shift, slinky Hepburn pantsuits (a Houghton specialty), “gala” gowns festooned with feathers or patchwork sequins, and dainty pencil skirts with even daintier lace-trimmed slips peeking out underneath. In contrast, gram’s youthful edge was incorporated in the form of fuchsia or royal blue tinted fur coats—a first for Polk—and an embroidered peplum top paired with a perfectly tailored pair of trousers. In other words, your new Fall suit.
Fresh off their 2013 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award for womenswear, Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin presented a Georgia O’Keeffe inspired collection at Industrie Studio on Thursday marking their first time on the fashion calendar. “It’s easy to fall into those O’Keeffe clichés, because they’re beautiful, but so many designers have done it,” said Martin at the show. “We tried draping flowers and wool, for example, but it felt dishonest; it didn’t feel like Tome,” explained Lobo. Instead, the pair riffed on quintessential O’Keeffe silhouettes, like elongated coats featuring exaggerated collars, and mixed in elegantly paired down crème gowns and slim, calf-grazing skirts fused with waist-cinching tops. Watch out: this is one dynamic duo that lives up to the hype.
Sachin + Babi
The northern lights were the inspiration for the chartreuse, mint, and midnight palette of Sachin + Babi’s Fall collection, which was held at the Dream Downtown’s Ph-D lounge. A fitting location, given the emphasis on nightowl-apropo pieces like a white mini dress, festooned with a northern lights-esque pattern, or a flirty party dress with a leather top and poofy black skirt to a fully sequined sweatsuit. While the husband-and-wife duo haven’t yet been to see Aurora Borealis, the idea apparently stemmed from Sachin’s penchant for photography and their mutual love of National Geographic. Naturally inspiring!