While industry types in New York, London, Milan and Paris struggle to make sense of the fashion show scene vis-a-vis the retail delivery schedule, a Minnesota-based brand has proposed a modest solution. In 2013, designer and CEO type Lisa Hackwith launched her collection with a simple idea: introduce one limited-edition piece on her website each Monday, and sell it until it sells out. Hackwith Design House’s minimalist, versatile, and flattering wares were an immediate hit, and three years later, the brand has grown to include basics, swim, and bridal lines, all of which are entirely produced in Hackwith’s St. Paul studio. She also collaborates with specialty stores around the country by creating limited-edition exclusives. Meet the Midwest’s next big fashion brand:
Lisa, what was the first piece you ever designed?
My first big project without a pattern was my own wedding dress. I couldn’t find a dress that really felt like me, so I decided to make my own. I’d only been sewing for a few months, so it was a big undertaking, but luckily, my client was very forgiving. I made the dress out of white linen, and I got to make something that I really loved. There is actually a gown in the new line that has some similarities to it.
At what point did you think, this could be a viable business?
I had some success on Etsy when I first started, and through that I had picked up a few wholesale accounts. I think that helped give me the confidence I needed to take the plunge and start my own e-commerce site. It was really scary to go out on my own like that, but the limited-edition model helped temper some of the risk since I was only making a few of each design. That first fall in 2013, I sold out of every piece I released, which gave me the financial security to hire my business partner and a lead seamstress. We’ve been able to grow from there.
Why are you committed to keeping your entire business in St. Paul?
I really enjoy living in the Twin Cities. My family is nearby, and I love the community here. Building a small business is such a huge undertaking, and it really helps to do it in a place that you feel comfortable in, a place where you have support.
The Twin Cities has a lot of people that are supportive of those making a living through creative work. There is a large and varied maker and artist community here, and being surrounded by such creative, hard-working energy is inspiring. While the fashion scene here is still growing, there are some really cool boutiques owned by men and women with impeccable taste that are very supportive of local designers.How do you keep your prices so competitive?
We keep all the manufacturing under one roof, including our patternmaking and grading. We have contracted out for those two things on more complicated pieces, like in the new bridal line, but typically either our lead seamstress, Elsie, or I do all the patternmaking and grading. That really helps keep our costs down. We’ve also been fortunate to find fabric suppliers that don’t require huge minimums for an order. We also moved into a studio that has space for us to shoot our products. Keeping everything in house helps us stay competitive and ensures quality control, so it really is a win-win for us.
We are working on building HDH into a lifestyle brand, and after we added Swim and Plus, Bridal just seemed like the next logical step. There are not a lot of options out there for women looking to wear pieces that are elegant designs in sustainable fabrics, pieces that are simply beautiful. We are hoping the women looking for something like that find it in our new line. We also strived to make the “bridesmaid” dresses beautiful dresses that anyone would want to wear.
How do you plan to evolve your business model?
How are people finding out about the brand?
