Runway

Milan Spring 2014: Giorgio Armani, Gianfranco Ferré

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(MILAN) Giorgio Armani 
Mr. Armani knows how to do a ladylike suit like no one out there. So why stray from the chic formula? There’s a reason this man has a fashion empire. For Spring, he delivered exactly what his customer desires: there were short suits, pant suits, and skirt suits on hand in mostly muted tones, offset by the occasional burst of aubergine and magenta. But there were also plenty of peach, pink, and purple florals for those in the market for a bit more flair. Flowing trapeze dresses and strapless tops that flared out and were worn with a matching fitted skirt were both perfect for summer affairs at, say, an afternoon polo match in the Hamptons or on a balmy eve in Palm Beach. Plenty of Armani blues were also present, in pieces like a short baby doll dress with bell sleeves or a mandarin collar chiffon dress with a deep-v worn under a woven magenta knitted jacket. It’s just what his society ladies will want come Spring, perhaps paired with those neck kerchiefs we’ve been seeing all over Milan. 

Gianfranco Ferré
Proving the point that a little (or sometimes big) belt can go a long way, Gianfranco Ferré’s Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi presented a masterfully crafted collection for Spring, almost all of which was cinched at the waist. A thick blue waist belt provided a change in texture on a monochrome suit, while a nude cincher created a paper bag waist on a wrap skirt; all of which allowed the longing for a separate wardrobe comprised of leather straps with metal closures. Dresses were folded like origami, with lots of variations in terms of necklines, hem lengths, and sleeve details. Case in point: a shiny citrine green shift with a draped neck and a geometric side seam was closely followed by a luscious flowing white gown with shoulder straps, a diamond shaped cutout and a side seam cut so high it reveals a pair of booty shorts underneath. Awash in white, black, varying shades of grey and tan, this collection was ultimately wearable, allowing for looks that would prove to be useful for days at the office as well as nights on the town. (Plus, one bathing suit apt for bronzing in style.)

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