Milan Fall 2014: Tod's, Versace, Sportmax
(NEW YORK) Tod’s
Taking Tod’s luxurious Milanese leather and turning it into a collection of highly covetable pieces is what Alessandra Facchinetti has done this season following up a glowing first season helming the brand as creative director. This collection was equally stunning. There were leather geometric printed ponchos, a ‘70s style tie top done entirely in burgundy leather, and a patent leather lavender skirt suit. Graphic checks came on a fully white cashmere look bedecked in black lines, plus a knit turtleneck dress in navy, accented with a maroon leather peplum belt and matching fedora with a wide brim that dipped in a moon-like shape. There was a camel colored poncho and a baby blue pantsuit that might do for some of Tod’s more conservative clientele. All in all, each piece looked so luxurious, you wouldn’t have to know that it was Tod’s to know it cost a pretty penny. Facchinetti is proving once again that she has what it takes to take Tod’s from the accessories realm into a ready-to-wear brand that’s a force to be reckoned with.
Two words that aren’t often paired together are demure and Versace, but for Fall, the former perfectly describes the latter. Full of long-sleeved dresses with generous hemlines, plenty of pants, and myriad coats, this isn’t quite the Versace we’re used to! Gold details that are synonymous with the label, like buttons and heavy chain necklaces, made appearances, as well as flashy suede over-the-knee boots, and quite a few handbag silhouettes. Among the pieces that Donatella Versace is likely to wear, a black satin suit stands out. On the other hand, Lady Gaga might gravitate to a white dress with epaulettes and a decorated blue leather moto jacket layered over a flowing silk mini dress. Shoulder fringe aside, there were a few militaristic influences, like the button detail on a teal dress and Versace-fied medals of honor. Salute Donatella!
Animal instincts. The Sportmax runway was all about sleek, sophisticated looks done in leopard, snakeskin, dramatic furs, and color blocking. Plus, there was more of the modernist art touch we’ve been seeing all over the runways, like a paint-patterned long-sleeved pullover worn with a skirt or an A line dress that revealed hints of cherry red through a front fold amid the multi-colored pattern. A sizzling slit on a red snakeskin pencil skirt revealed just a hint of white fabric beneath for subtle sex appeal. A completely snakeskin trench dress half black, half brown with the diamond-shaped snake pattern with an extra wide belt screamed luxury. There were cheetah print cape dresses and trench coats. Speaking of outerwear, a multicolored mohair coat with black lapels cinched by a white belt was particularly stunning. It was a collection of minimalist cuts done in vibrant, luxe patterns that popped.