Milan Fall 2014: Salvatore Ferragamo, Jil Sander, Missoni
(NEW YORK) Salvatore Ferragamo
Retooled classics ruled for Fall, with luxe takes on a caped coat, elegantly trimmed toppers, and elegant knits. Tale black leather boots drimmed in subtle embellishments felt work apropos and a little edgy all at once, while noir leather piping felt crisp on every piece it festooned. Animal prints worked particularly well on coats and capes that just looked incredibly rich (as did the collection at large). Meanwhile, cinchers were moderate in width and prominent in the Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti toyed around pleats and croc with aplomb, usually in separate looks. The collection’s overall effect? Sumptuous yet innately, exceedingly wearable.
Designing without Jil Sander at her eponymous label is a gray place, at least when it comes to color ways. The fall collection featured quite a few shades of gray, with tinges of blue or pink here and there. All colors aside, there was a sportif influence to the collection, with wool jackets pulled in opposite directions via seams and dresses scrunched in the mid-section, as if the clothes themselves were in motion. This notion was expanded upon with sporty brogues featuring hefty sole that would perform well in impromptu running races. While one might argue that the cocoon coats were the star of the show, the bias-cut skirts with mid-rib waistlines were arguably the most exciting pieces. Appearing in teal with a coordinating sweater and the palest pink alongside a ribbed turtle neck, expect to see that skirt a few times over.
Don’t’ call it a retrospective, but Missoni offered up a collection made (almost) entirely of knitwear, the material that the brand was built upon. At times it was hard to discern between what was knit and what wasn’t. To wit: what seemed to be a tweed was, in fact, a knit, supersized in texture. The signature zig zag wasn’t overtly present in the collection, but it made a few appearances in a blown up version on a fuzzy tank or haphazardly thrown-on a zip-up sweater. The hues du jour were all across the board, from a pale pink to a deep gray, but bright pops of electric blue, yellow, and burnt orange to keep things lively. The strong leather and ostrich skin booties with a slightly squared toe were very downtown chic, especially when paired with ribbed knee-high tights. The Missoni girl was clearly living the definition of a cool girl, messy bun, smudged eyeliner, and all.