Milan Fall 2014: No. 21, Fausto Puglisi
(NEW YORK) No. 21
Rainbow-hued sequins, anyone? For Fall, Alessandro Dell’Acqua dreamed up a sparkle-encrusted collection for No. 21. There were sequined coats, pants, and tops layered underneath thin cashmere sweaters. Silk tank gowns were embellished, chunky sweaters were decorated, and clutches were smothered in sparkly goodness. On pieces that were simply 2-D, the melding of fabrics turned out to be brilliant pairings, like chains of beads peeking out under a chiffon dress. Tan lace was fashioned into a full Chantilly lace dress, and had a certain, romantically futuristic feel, while a plaid wool coat that faded into a grey fur hem was charmingly old school. Also brilliant was a green sweater hybrid, where ribbed met mohair, and all was thrown off kilter by a feather and beaded skirt, a look that translates much better visually. Merely a week before Dell’Acqua’s debut chez Rochas, this collection was the perfect prelude.
A colorblocked ode to New York City is quite enchanting, especially when the opener is Lindsey Wixson. Fausto Puglisi plastered the Statue of Liberty all over his collection; blown up in B&W or shrunken into a tiled pattern throughout. Another motif shown over and over were geometric shapes in a handful of colors, ranging from pretty pastels to bold primary colors. The volume was absolutely amazing, especially in miniskirts flared out from the waist with soft pleats. Jackets were draped over shoulders, like capes (or, well, like most every ed sitting front row nowadays). With so much going on, one has to praise the barely there makeup look and laidback hair combo.