Milan Fall 2014: Emporio Armani, Etro, Blumarine
(NEW YORK) Emporio Armani
For Fall, Giorgio Armani is giving vous all the more reason to pile on trusty B&W pieces, along with plenty of grey, with a heavy bent on menswear. Neutrals aficionados, rejoice! Pearl-dappled trou resembled pinstripes, while other bottoms with briefer hems (done in ankle-length and knee-length iterations) featured subtle pleating. Pops of teal broke up the stark exercise in black and white.. Slightly oversized chapeaus that covered the eyes sported rounded silhouettes in soft shades of gray as well as noir cropped up, starting with the very first look. Jackets ran the gamut from sleek collarless toppers to trench-esque shapes to myriad takes on the blazer. Also present in Mr. Armani’s latest? “Shades of irony,” according to an après-show release. Intriguing! All the more reason to pore over this icy exercise in elegance.
Etro’s parade of prints this season included wool coats with embroidery that looked slightly Russian, and or a silk kimono-style long jacket worn over cropped culotte pants in a Chinoiserie print. There was plenty of layering like a striking patchwork poncho worn over a plaid V neck below-the-knee dress and sueded boots or a floor-length coat done in a classic Etro scarf print that was luxuriously fully lined in mink and presumably reversible with an extra long knit scarf a and forest green suede boots. There were furs, shearlings, crushed velvet, and plenty of silk in warm burgundies, deep navies, and earthy browns. It was a boho vibe to this collection, definitely, but it was anything but casual.
The show kicked off with a wide-sleeved kimono that was a none-too-subtle take on Eastern influences. However, a black wrap satin mini-skirt with sleek lines and a thick waistband was a modern nod to geishas, and a bright floral on a white skirt was quite possibly the best take on this Japanese trend. Capes of all types were seen too, from a shorter cream-colored version to a floor-length black and gold number. The newest shoe to covet would have to be a thigh-high leather boot, in hues of purple and black that played as nicely with a demure (by Blumarine standards) black dress as it did with a gargantuan fur jacket. There were two standout dresses in the midst of the collection, both composed of a gold Lurex with knife sharp pleats and black details. So glam!