Milan Fall 2013: Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Salvatore Ferragamo
(MILAN) Giorgio Armani
While rendered in inherently dark tones like black, greys and navies that stayed true to Armani’s DNA, the theme this season was decidedly less serious. Evoking Spring’s haute harlequin tropes on the runways, Giorgio Armani debuted his version of the trend with pieces like a square and diamond pattern two-button jacket that didn’t overplay sleeve proportions, or a diamond print sweater worn under bibbed suspender pants. The look played out elsewhere in a silk white top with a black ruffled collar worn avec wide-leg velvet pants and a sequined, black striped jacket. Or, say, sequined black evening pants with suspendered silk peplum up top. Exaggerated details like oversize buttons, diamond patterns, big collars, and bows showed that Mr. Armani steered clear of the clownish, of course, while still infusing plenty of whimsy into the collection.
Dolce & Gabbana
Just like a prayer, Stefano and Domenico will take you there! The duo christened the runway with golden opulence in a collection centered around the mastery of Catholic mosaic imagery at Sicily’s Cathedral of Monreale. While the exquisite tile work got translated onto the catwalk, any of the Catholic church’s turmoil didn’t come along for the sartorial ride. Instead, Dolce & Gabbana’s latest shined via a series of golden frocks, from an A-line number, gem-festooned and sporting a short hem, or a mosaic-printed pencil skirt with a sheer black lacy bra-revealing top. Cardinal reds were richly regal in full-on beading or lace. Nun references came in white wide-sleeved tops paired with black lace below-the-knee skirts. Grey tweed and checked patterns toned it down a tad, via church-apropos skirtsuits, but Stefano and Domenico’s girl is anything but demure. To wit: Many of these holy-hewed fabrics were also paired with bloomers and transparent lace, thus erring on the side of more revealing. And how about those jewels? Mods wore crowns and rosary-inspired cross earrings and necklaces (talk about statement-making!). If only Madge could’ve had this collection in the ’80s. Calling all Madonnas in the making!
A perfect black winter coat is as essential to a woman’s wardrobe as a little black dress. Massimiliano Giornetti has his ladies covered on both fronts this season. Covered in what, you ask? For starters, sleek outerwear came in various iterations, including black knee-length leather coats with pony hair lapels, a cropped peacoat with leather piping, and a partial-ponyhair trench, tethered asymmetrically at the waist. While outerwear was the focus, the little black dress was not left out. A strapless black sheath dress with a sheer lining that came up to the neck like a light veil with tube piping at the waist was a must-have. But snowy white pieces lightened up this noir collection like a knee-length fur coat with leather storm flaps and a ’60s-inflected mod turtleneck dress with a matching slanted belt. And the shoes? A mix of the classic pump and the knee-high boot made a stunning statement. Giornetti’s classics with a twist should have retailers ordering robustly for Fall.