Milan Fall 2013: Fendi, Prada
Fur, fur and more fur! Fendi knows its way around plush pelts; this season, they made sure to flaunt it. This time it wasn’t just a naturally pigmented palette. Coats, skirts and skirt suits came in striated hues of hot pink, navy, orange, brown and white. A black zippered wool coat dress was accented with curvaceous, shoulder-skimming panels of cobalt blue fur, chest, and sleeves, the frock’s edges dyed white to accentuate via outline. Also warming up the runway? A full-on fur sweater. Luxe much?! Yet the best looks tended to be the most understated. See: a sculpted white jacket, half of which was wool, the other half comprised of pale pink fur. A white knee-length skirt and black cinched waist overcoat on different looks also got the halved treatment, in the same fashion. Other options abounded, like a sexy black leather slit skirt with knee high stockings and a leather pullover top or a casually cool zip blouson jacket that was decorated with layered circular paillettes worn with slouchy white pants. But Karl Lagerfeld apparently had the furriers working overtime; everything from handbags to headpieces to heels (Céline déjà vu, anyone?) got decadently pelt-laden. Only the deepest of pockets will do for this lavish collection, non?
She’s come undone: Refined gone rogue was the vibe at Prada’s always-pivotal showing. While most look to the runways for next-season teasers, editors look to Prada to see what’s in store for the following season. For good reason. If Miucca Prada’s Fall collection is any indication, the we can expect to continue seeing demure check coats, pencil dresses, and skirt suits, shaken up with a madame-like message and twinge of grunge, for at least the next two seasons. Dresses got layered over unbuttoned cardigans, sexily and messily exposing shoulders; some coats just barely hung onto the mods’ frames. Oversized, scrunched cuffs circled nearly every jacket and coat, sometimes in fur. Coats were cinched with wide metallic belts; asymmetrical hems fell on checked dresses or partially in sequin detail. Zippers on skirts and bodices added a zesty touch of punk. Exaggerated stripes on off-the-shoulder cinched waist tops with matching skirts had a fierce Vivienne Westwood flair. And the shoes? Cool, metallic open-toed platform sandals, mixed in with a smattering of flat, clunky soled moto-style ankle boots that we expect to see street-snapped ASAP. To top it off, there were chocolate croc skirt suits and mink furs. Why? Lest we forget, the Prada woman is as equally uptown and downtown as she is equally invested in quirk and luxe. Divine!