London Spring 2014: Tom Ford, Peter Pilotto, Temperley London
(LONDON) Tom Ford
One of Tom Ford‘s purposes in this world is to make women look sexy. And hey, the man can clearly do that, so why change a thing? In the form of head-to-toe mosaic dresses and coordinating thigh high boots, Ford even made sparkling bits of glass that looked like disco balls remnants into a sexpot outfit. However, that’s not all there is to see here: On the jacket front, there were puffy fur boleros with exaggerated sleeves, crocodile jackets that are more aviator than motorcycle, and a leather cocoon menswear coat with quite large lapels. There were also trench coats with extreme hardware and leather trim plus a blazer that had its bottom half dipped in silk. In between all the fantastic jackets there were sheer dresses crisscrossed with scribbles in black, white and pink, plus some insane dresses that were so body-con they seemed to be airbrushed on. The shoes to obsess this season? Thigh-high lace ups in a scribbly-looking black fabric that Carine Roitfeld will surely be donning in the next two to three weeks.
Don’t let the fact that Peter Pilotto announced his forthcoming Target collection at his spring collection take away from the goodies on the runway. Pilotto isn’t afraid of volume, so banish any fears of epic proportions and embrace the (not-so) hidden crinolines that gave his designs some serious shape. Dresses with hypnotizing prints of shimmer, skirts that an ultra-modern milk maid would don and simple tee-shirt frocks got an upgrade with a bell of a skirt thanks to this age-old trick. Those few pieces without maximum volume featured origami-esque detailing that brought even more energy to hues and prints in hot pink, electric purple, and a searing shade of red. Subtly subversive buttoned-up types might appreciate Pilotto’s take on the white button down, tweaked thanks to its oversized shirtsleeves. But then again, this is a collection fit for extraordinary types. Average Joes need not apply!
Care for a bit of quirk in the footwear department? Alice Temperley absolutely paired mismatched shoes together at her latest Temperley London show. She also created lovely colorblocked separates in shades of pink, but also created a masterful long dress in black, tan and nearly white that was just as fun. Other bursts of joie were found in big skirts embellished with silk flowers. For those in the market for a whole new spate of kicky, toss-on-and-go frocks, Temperley is your line and this is your collection to stockpile. Pre-order, anyone?