Runway

Haute Couture Spring 2014: Maison Martin Margiela

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(NEW YORK) Maison Martin Margiela
The fashion set prefers to inhabit digs that are artfully decorated; a colorful backdrop to their lives if you will. With Maison Martin Margiela’s latest Couture showing, home-apropos textiles have found their way onto the runway. Models shrouded with face masks (this year’s version is a sheer black with applique eyes) served as mannequins for the richly textured fabrics. Raw hems and unfinished fabrics hinted at a wealth of history. The likes of Frank Lloyd Wright, Raoul Dufy, and Paul Gauguin’s work got translated into oversized coats and pant suits. Simple, strapless dresses hung off the body, allowing the focus to remain on the artful print combinations, while jackets were maxed-out in size. A minidress was covered in all the things one might find at the bottom of a sewing kit: buttons, plastic pearls, snaps, and chains. Patches got covered in hearts and names for a sweetly hand-hewn touch, and a dress fashioned out of pinup girls was finished off with a silk paisley skirt. There was a bit of an Eastern influence on a few of the patterns, like the dragon that dominated a skirt suit and a shapeless dress. As for chaussures, Margiela’s hoof-toed boots are back again, this time in shimmering chartreuse. Closing out the show was a black strapless silk number avec two big eyes adorning the mod’s arms. Perhaps this is the ever-elusive designer’s way of reminding the audience he’s always watching, even if you can’t see him.

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