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Erdem Spring 2015

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Very few do the flora and fauna thing better than Erdem. Against a backdrop of tropical plants at London’s Selfridges hotel, Erdem Moralioglu paraded outstanding pieces like a figure fitting ankle-length dress adorned with appliqué palm fronds (this came in a few variations) and floral appliqué with tufts of navy feathers that sprouted throughout the pattern, which came in both a top and pencil skirt. There were also the romantic pieces, like a floaty, ruffle-hemmed dress with a plunging unbuttoned neckline in baby blue and lime green florals set against sheer black organza. This look opened up the show, and similar floor-length versions closed the show, one of which also featured a ruffled collar and bustline with cut-outs at the chest. Also on offer: stunning broderie anglaise gowns, like a delicate white floor-length cap sleeve peplum waisted dress or a button-up version with a peter pan collar and black sash that felt very Valentino. Many collections this season have taken inspiration from the romantic, almost antique feeling of the Italian house. But the ornate details to be found on Erdem’s runway and his deft use of prints still make this collection identifiably and uniquely Erdem. Plus, here there is a bit more of a subtly sexiness in the plunging necklines, suggestively left undone, and the fitted way some dresses clung to the body. Can we also have a moment to appreciate those fully feathered pieces? A voluminous coat, totally decked out in emerald green feathers, looked like it was about to take flight.

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