Dior Haute Couture Spring 2016

Dior’s studio directors Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier made their runway debut as the current faces behind Dior’s Spring 2016 Couture collection. (In case you’ve been in hiding, the French house has yet to find a replacement after former creative director Raf Simons left the house after a three-year run.) Ruffieux and Meier, both Swiss designers who worked under Simons, are expected to serve as placeholders until an appointment is named. Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen has reportedly been in talks with Dior; some suggest that Hedi Slimane may also be a contender. The latter is said to be in talks with Kering over his contract at Saint Laurent, which may not be renewed due to creative differences.

It’s been a fashion whirlwind in terms of who’s left, who’s going where, and so forth, but the show must go on. Ruffieux and Meier carried on many recognizable codes from the Simons era, including asymmetric and geometric necklines, new takes on the Bar jacket, paneled embroideries and familiar color palettes. But somehow, the collection lacked the confidence, discipline, and frankly, fit and wow factor that Simons used to great success. And we’re not sure any woman wants a tuft of cherry-colored ruffles around the hips on an otherwise slinky gown. Ruffieux and Meier are said to also be designing the Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection. Perhaps by then, they’ll have a better grasp of how to fill the enormous shoes that Simons left behind.