Alexander McQueen Fall 2015
A very rosy outlook: Sarah Burton‘s latest collection chez Alexander McQueen was all about “the spirit of the rose,” inspired by David Sims’ photos in an issue of Visionaire devoted entirely to the timeless bloom. Texturally complex pieces formed the noir, blush, and lipstick red collection, like shredded patent leather on silk, finely pleated bustier-finished frocks, saucy leather dresses in merlot and black that flaunted plunging necklines and pinwheel-like, grommeted pleats, and roughed-up, very sheer lace gowns to close the show. The excessively-ruffled looks were a bit much, but in moderation, the frills were pleasing, like on a few dresses sporting curvy, undulating mesh cutouts (an aesthetic that was echoed in the swirling colorblocking on the collections’ abundance of superfine pleated numbers. Sometimes the flora theme was very overt, as in the magical, sculptural blooms that formed the voluminous skirts of looks 28 and 29, or in the duo of vampy, high-necked rose-patterned gowns that followed immediately after.